Clearing Your Acne with Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids
Before I get into the products that I used, I want to let you know that no blog post or google search can compare to the expertise that your dermatologist has. So I urge you to take this information that you learn today to your dermatology so that together you can come up with a skincare regiment that works for you and your specific skin type.
So here goes my review and some knowledge!
Exfoliation is the removal of dead skin. Our skin cells are constantly renewing itself about every 30 to 40 days. Our skin cells shed at such a slow wait and because of this we can end up with an accumulation of dead skin cells on our face. To be completely honest, our air doesn't help either. Pollution can be a major cause to skin problems.
Before visiting the dermatologist, I was desperate to find something, some product, circulating in the commercial world that would help treat my Acne, besides Neutrogena.
I had heard a lot of great things abound Mario Badescu Skin Care and decided to conduct more research on some products. I was interested in purchasing a Cleanser and an Acne treatment. Using these products for a couple of weeks, I did notice some good changes in my skin. From Mario Badescu, I bought Glycolic Foaming Cleanser, and Facial Spray and from Paula's Choice, I purchased both the AHA and BHA Skin Perfecting exfoliants because I was not sure which would work for my skin.
There are many ways in which you can exfoliate your skin. The most common being with a washcloth, another being with a type of mechanical exfoliant, like crystal/beaded cleansers and lastly with a chemical exfoliant (acids). Depending on your specific needs and concerns, it is important to find the method that works for you!
Chemical exfoliants help the skin to "turnover" dead skin cells and and shed, but also gently corrects skin texture, pores and age spots.
1. Glycolic Acid | Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Natural Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane. Glycolic acid usually have the letters A-H-A. after it. AHAs are water soluble. They’re generally preferred for normal to dry, sun-damaged skin, due to their ability to enhance natural moisturizing factors within skin. AHA’s have been proven to be effective in reducing the visible signs of sun damage.There are tons of percentages of AHA that you can find ranging from 7% to 20% and higher. The higher percentages might be something that you would probably need a medical professional to apply as they are mostly used in chemical peels and such.
How does it work:
Glycolic acid breaks down the glue that holds cells together thus exfoliating skin. By exfoliating the skin it diminishes wrinkles and diminished dark spots and because it is a weak acid, it breaks down oils on the skin thus helping with acne and shrinks the pores size. This acid is able to stimulate collagen production which is needed for anti aging and melanin production thus evening out hyper pigmentation.
Targets
Glycolic acid targets superficial irregularities. It can help with evening out your skin tone, increase firmness and is great for regular maintenance. Although it hydrates the skin, if you use this product a lot, it will have the adverse effect. So be sure to follow with a hydrating moisturizer and lots of SPF in the morning.
Also, if you are using another dermatological product make sure that you are not using too many products or agents that could dry out your skin.
2. Beta Hydroxy Acids Lactic Acid
On the other end of the spectrum are BHA molecules such as salicylic acid. BHA is oil soluble therefore is perfect for those with normal to oily skin prone to bumps, clogs, blemishes, and enlarged pores. BHA also has natural skin-calming properties, so it’s gentle enough for sensitive skin while it works on skin’s surface and inside the pore. Because of its Lipophilic characteristics, it is able to seep through the skin and cut through oils in order to decongest your skin. It is able to eat at the bond that hold the dead skin layer to the layer of skin underneath. The people who would benefit the most from Lactic Acid are those who have textured irregularities. Those who would want to smooth out their skin or create a brighter complexion.
If you have dry or sensitive skin, Lactic acid is perfectly gentle to use because it acts as a humectant attracting moisture. My BHA of choice is Paula's Choice BHA Liquid. I have had pretty good results using this product although, I have stopped since I have started treating my acne. I only did this because I needed something "dermatological grade". These chemical exfoliants seem to only have a moderate amount of chemical agents so it is usually not strong enough to totally change your skin overnight, it takes time, but it does work.
It is important to understand what it is you are wanting to correct and how severe the problem is. The level of treatment should match the severity. You should also pay attention to the PH and PKA value of the product that you are using as they represent the " free acid availability" which is basically the value that determines what/ how much of the product will actually be able to penetrate your skin, Ensuring that the PKA is close enough to the PH ensures that you are using the optimal formula.
I found a pretty great article about the science behind the importance of PH on the effectiveness of chemical exfoliants here
I hope this helps! What is your go to type of exfoliant? Mechanical or chemical? And what products do you swear by?